Routers are one of the most versatile tools in the woodshop. Armed with a good quality stationary or hand-held router and the proper assortment of bits, you can perform a virtually unlimited variety of specialized woodworking operations, including (believe it or not):
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* Cutting workpieces to size or shape
* Cutting out duplicate workpieces
* Boring holes
* Trimming
* Grooving & Dadoing
* Cutting decorative designs in workpiece surfaces
* Cutting decorative designs on workpiece edges
* Making raised panels
* Forming a variety of joints
When purchasing router bits, you have the option of selecting either piloted or un-piloted bits. Piloted Router Bits are used when cutting a decorative profile on the edge of a straight or curved workpiece where the entire edge of the stock is not to be removed. When selecting piloted bits, you have a choice of bits with a solid pilot...or a bearing pilot. Although solid pilot bits are less costly, they can easily create friction which results in unsightly burn marks when making the cut. Bearing pilot bits are more expensive, but provide the advantage of smoother running operation and no burning of the workpiece edge. Un-Piloted Router Bits offer no edge guides and have flutes that will cut all the way to their tips. They are therefore designed for use on projects where the entire edge of the workpiece is to be removed - or a decorative cut is to be made somewhere within the perimeter of the stock (usually on its surface). As a result, un-piloted bits are most commonly guided during use by a fixture, guide pin or a fence...although many practiced craftsmen create incredible designs free-hand. To perform these operations, you will need a variety of different shaped bits. More about these shapes later...but first, let's look at some "bit basics". Router bits are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, each designed to perform a specific operation...but all sharing three basic components. These components are:
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* The SHANK - The part of the Bit that is gripped firmly in your router's collet (or chuck). For the most part, bits are available in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" diameter shanks. Most hand-held routers use 1/4" shanks, although 3/8" and 1/2" collets (or chucks) are available for many Router Models. The larger the shank diameter, the more durable the bit will be and the "truer" it will run under stress.
* The PILOT - The part of the bit that rides against the edge of a workpiece to guide it while you're making your cuts. More about Pilots in Part 2 of our series.
* The FLUTES - The part of the bit that actually performs the cutting. Router bits are available in three types of materials, and should be selected on the basis of the amount of use they're expected to receive and the types of materials they're intended to cut. High-Speed Steel Bits are the least costly and are intended for occasional use only...or for working with soft woods such as pine, redwood, basswood, poplar, etc. They will deliver limited use before sharpening is required. Carbide-Tipped Bits have become the most commonly available of all bits. They are typically made by fusing carbide cutting flutes to a high-speed steel shank. Use them when working with hard woods such as oak, cherry, and hard maple...and for solid counter surface materials such as Corian, laminates, particleboard and MDF. They are more expensive than high-speed steel bits, but provided extended use and durability before sharpening is necessary Solid Carbide Bits are the most costly of all available bits. However, they're also the most durable and are usually available only in simple, straight profiles. Router Bits are available in a wide variety of profiles for performing many different specialized jobs. The 10 bits shown here are designed for grooving and for making cutouts in panels. These bits typically have no pilots. Veining Bits...round bottomed bits for decorative grooves, carving, inlay work and lettering. Straight Bits ...flat bottomed bits that cut on the sides and bottom. For routing grooves, cuting dadoes and rabbets, mortising, carving and leveling recesses. Vee Groove Bits...V-shaped bits for decorative carving, sign work, chamfering edges, fluting and lettering. Core Box Bits...rounded bits for carving and fluting flat surfaces such as drain-boards, servers and tables. 3-in-1 Bits...bits that cut a straight side up to 1-1/4" deep, make a smooth rounded corner and shape a perfectly flat bottom in a single pass. Hinge Mortising Bits...bits specifically designed to mortise areas for hinges. Also used for dadoes, rabbets and stock removal. Dovetail Bits ...bits used to form sliding dovetail joints and dadoes in furniture. Tee Slot Bits...T-shaped bits for cutting hanging slots in plaques and picture frames or routing sliding tracks. Round Nose Bits...similar in design and purpose to core box bits, yet offer longer cutting edges for forming deeper grooves or flutes. Panel Bits...These bits have a tip like a drill bit with a pilot just above it. The tip drills through your workpiece, then the workpiece can be moved to cut grooves and lattice work, cutouts for sinks in countertops, and slots in paneling for electrical boxes. Router Bits are available in a wide variety of profiles for performing many different specialized jobs. The 9 bits shown here are designed for cutting decroative edging (or joinery profiles) and for trimming workpiece edges. These bits are typically piloted. Rabbeting Bits...for joints along workpiece edges or step cutting. Camfering Bits ...for decorative chamfers on thick edges. Cove Bits...for decorative edging and the concave side of drop-leaf table joints. Beading Bits...for all-purpose edging and the convex side of drop-leaf table joints. Corner Round Bits...for decorative edging on all types of projects. Roman Ogee Bits...for large decorative rounded edging. Slot Cutters...are used for forming slots in the edges of workpieces like those used in tongue-and-groove joinery. Laminate and Veneer Trimming Bits Combination Bits...These bits are designed to trim plastic laminates and veneers. Both flush and bevel trim bits are available but only carbide-tipped or solid carbide bits should be used for this type of work. Piloted Straight Bits...are also designed for laminate trimming, but offer straight sides and no beveled cutting edges.
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* When mounting router bits, insert the bit all the way into the collet (or chuck), then back it out about 1/16" to 1/8" before tightening. This simple technique will help prevent the transferring of heat and vibrations from the bit to the router motor armature.
* Before inserting a bit into the collet or chuck, inspect both the bit and its holder to be sure they are clean and free of pitch build-up. If not, clean the collet (or chuck) and bit shank with a sawblade cleaner or oven cleaner prior to mounting. If you're using a bearing piloted bit, be sure NOT to get any solvents or cleaners on the bearings while performing this operation.
* Always be certain the collet or chuck is tightened securely around the bit shank. Failure to do so could cause galling, which will ruin the bit, and potentially, the collet (or chuck). Never throw router bits carelessly and loosely into a drawer with other tools. This could nick the edges of the bits, ruining them, or necessitating costly, professional sharpening. Never store router bits in a damp location, as this will causing rusting and dulling of the bits. It's best to store them in an enclosed area with camphor tablets or silica-filled canisters to coat them with a thin, rust-inhibiting film...or absorb the moisture before it reaches the bit. Plastic ammunition boxes make excellent router bit storage containers, as do wood or foam blocks with drilled holes for the bit shanks. Occasionally, router bits will collect pitch that should be removed to prevent workpiece burning. This cleaning can be easily performed with a spray-on sawblade cleaner or oven cleaner. When performing this operation, be sure to cover bearing pilots or remove them, as these cleaners will destroy the bearing lubricant, causing premature bearing failure. As with all cutting tools, router bits require occasional sharpening for optimal performance. The cutting edges of high-speed steel and carbide-tipped bits can be easily honed in the shop by following these tips:
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* NEVER touch a sharpening stone to the outside curved or straight edge of a router bit, as this will alter the profile of the cut and the overall diameter of the bit.
* Sharpen only the back (flat) edge of the bit flute by moving it back and forth across a flat sharpening stone surface (use appropriate lubricant)
* High-speed steel bits may be sharpened with Arkansas or India stones, while carbide-tipped or solid carbide bits will require a diamond stone.
* Bits that become extremely dull or nicked should either be replaced or taken to a professional sharpening service.